A Magic Carpet for a Dog

Dear Melissa:
Help, I need some advice on rugs.  I have to have many rugs around the rooms on my first floor, due to one of my dogs who won't walk on the wood floors, so there are more rugs than normal.  My colors tend towards blue and burgundy and are either oriental-type or braided mixed around the areas.  I need to purchase a runner for one area.  Should I be "matchy, matchy" and get the exact same rug as the others in that room nearby, get that same rug in a different, but complementary color or should I get a different type entirely (such as another oriental-type?

Thanks for any help you may be able to give me. J.D., LA

Dear J:

Interesting dog. Have you tried socks?

There are no right or wrong answers in decorating, only effects. Here are some questions you can ask yourself in order to make the right decision. What effect do you see when you look over all these area rugs? Do you see pleasing, delineated groupings of furniture, or is the look rather choppy and busy? Is a hodgepodge of rugs the first thing that catches your eye when entering your home?

Here are my suggestions. If the look is too busy, you might do better with an attractive wall-to-wall carpet for a quieter, more continuous look. If you are happy with the area rugs, consider the effect that a matching rug would have versus the effect of an additional pattern. Where do you want the viewer’s eye to go? Where in all honesty will it go? Here’s a little tip: if you have too many rugs and too many patterns, all you’ll see are rugs, not the furniture, or the view, or the fireplace, etc. If everything looks good as it is, will an additional pattern be distracting?

In either case, any combination of the same colors will help tie the look together. M.A.K.

The Fifth Wall

Dear Melissa:

I understand that ceilings are called the “fifth wall” and are supposed to be given some sort of treatment, but aside from painting them a surprising color or mirroring them, I’m at a loss. C.A., FLA 

Dear C.:

Well, let’s skip the mirrors unless you are creative enough to avoid both the “Las Vegas” and bordello looks. Let’s also avoid the popcorn finish found in almost every new house.

Try coffering or gilding your ceiling, or adding a dome, cove lighting, or a skylight. How about covering it with wallpaper, or bamboo matting? You could also install or stencil a center medallion on it or hire a decorative artist to fresco it or create a custom finish for you.

You will hear me saying again and again: you are limited only by your imagination and budget. Just try to keep the ceiling treatment in harmony with the rest of the room. Also, bear in mind that a dark, busy ceiling will appear lower, and a light, quiet ceiling will seem to recede. Determine the appropriate effect you are trying to achieve. M.A.K.

What Is the Difference Between a Decorator and an Interior Designer

Dear Melissa:
What is the difference between an interior decorator and an interior designer? B.P., NJ

Dear B.:
Think of it as the difference between a psychologist and a psychiatrist: both can help you but one has had more extensive training. While anyone with talent and a resale certificate can become a decorator, many states have passed licensing or title acts that require anyone using the title “interior designer” to have first passed something called the NCIDQ certification exam. Only qualified interior designers are granted this title in order to protect the health, safety, and welfare of the public.

Typically, decorators create room layouts and shop for clients. Interior designers on the other hand may choose to sell merchandise, but also act as consultants to clients by reorganizing space, complying with building codes, specifying furniture, finishes, and equipment, and administering contracts. Clients are often directed to dealers for purchases. Work is usually done at a much higher level than that of a decorator.

That said, a lot depends on the ability of the individual practitioner. There are decorators just as capable as interior designers who choose not to sit for the grueling NCIDQ exam. To confuse things a little more, there is a sort of pre-professional level, my level, i.e., the allied member of ASID. This means that I am a card-carrying member of the American Society of Interiors Designers who has the appropriate education and experience to register for the NCIDQ exam, but who has not sat for it. M.A.K.

Disagreeement on Color

Dear Melissa:

My wife and I just bought a new contemporary house that we love. However, I love an antique white color on the walls but my wife wants more color. My question is, designer to the rescue, with really tall walls, how would you use color in a really big room??? How do you pick the colors?? How do you separate the rooms?? My wife and I are in conflict. F.G., NH

Dear F. and Mrs. F.:

I don’t do counseling, but what I think I hear you saying (do I sound like Oprah?) is that you’re worried that while a neutral color can be boring, a strong color will overpower a large room. Fear not. As long as the wall color has something to do with the colors of the furnishings, you should be all right. May I suggest a compromise? Try a neutral nonwhite: a gray-green or yellow (which go with everything), or one of the many unidentifiable grays that are so fresh now.

Don’t worry too much about rooms that have doors that close. Those colors are self-contained. Concentrate instead on the rooms open to one another.

The easiest way to find a color scheme you can both agree on is to pull one from a patterned fabric or wallpaper you already have in the room. The textile designer already came up with colors that go well together. Assign a different color from the mix to each room as the predominant color, and then use the other colors for accents. M.A.K.